Chevron Curtain DIY

If you're like me and you fell in love with the Chevron pattern immediately after getting a Pinterest account, then you've probably tried either purchasing or making your own Chevron something or another.

Of course, I did also. Sometimes I think I can make everything.

(This is sadly not true...because I cannot make my own mini Cadbury eggs. Very, very unfortunate.)

The first Chevron pattern that I attempted was on a curtain for my room. The curtain was cheap so I wasn't really worried about perfection - it was more of a trial run.

And THANK GOODNESS for that.

I about pulled my hair out with my first try!

I weighed the pros and cons of each possible technique, and somehow thought that

drawing out my own pattern without measuring was a "smart" idea, and that using

Martha Stewart acrylic craft paint would be genius.

It was NOT genius.

The acrylic paint was too thin, so the finished curtain is slightly iridescent on some parts;

but that is not the biggest downfall.

It took foreverrrrrrr.



My Chevron Room Curtain

Besides all that, I really do like the way the Chevron pattern looks as a curtain, so I decided I would brave another go at it.

Believe me, this is the EASIEST, fastest way to do it!!

HERE'S WHAT YOU WILL NEED:

Frogtape or any Painter's tape - If you'll be doing smaller Chevron
stripes, it's best if you pick your tape to be the size of stripes you
would like - I chose to use 1.88"
(Walmart or any Home Improvement Store - Approx. $5-8)

Speedsquare - DON'T think you can just use a ruler!!! This is what made the
whole process SO much easier! - I used 12"
(Any Home Improvement Store - Approx. $8)

Latex Paint.
The person helping me at the Home Improvement store
would not dare tell me that it would be OK to use Latex paint.
She was afraid that it would peel right off and I would blame her!
Don't worry - the Latex is excellent on fabric made with a canvas-like
material - especially on curtains that can be cleaned easily, without
throwing them in the washer.
The type of finish is irrelevant (flat, gloss, semi-gloss, etc.)
(Walmart or any Home Improvement store)

Foam Roller, or better yet...

Foam Brushes - they're best to fill in between the tape, and they use up less paint
(Walmart or any Craft or Home Improvement Store)

- A Pencil

- Plastic or Drop Cloth (to lay under your curtains)

And finally...CURTAINS!!!

Of course!

The curtains I used were on sale at Lowes.

I forgot to take a picture of what kind I used (whoops), but the fabric is a linen/canvas-like material. The paint will be thick, so sheer or thin curtains wouldn't be good!

Step One

Lay your speedsquare so the straight line is parallel to the top of your curtain.

Mark a pencil line along the left side of your speedsquare and tape along that line.

I found that the easiest way for measuring was to cut two pieces of the painters tape and lie it where I need the empty space to be.

Align the speedsquare up with that first piece of tape, remove the 'temporary' tape, and mark along speedquare with your pencil. Tape along pencil line.

Step Two

Line up your speedsquare so the the triangular tip is right at the top of your curtain - make sure that the straight line is again parallel with the top of your curtain as well.

Mark the other side of the speedsquare, and stop wherever you would like, depending on how large or small you'd like your triangles to be. I chose to mark right below a seam at about 10" so that I find that same spot below the seam throughout the marking process.

Be sure to tape ABOVE pencil marking, otherwise your triangles will be uneven.



Step Three

Once your first triangle is set, turn your speedsquare upside down and align it with the BOTTOM edge of your tape. Keep the straight line of your speedsquare parallel with the top of the curtain. Mark a line along the speedsquare to the top of the curtain.

As your tape overlaps once they come to a point, you can use scissors to cut the excess tape. Mind the tape width or else the point will be deformed!

Continue this process across the first row of your curtain.

And don't worry...everything else is pretty quick after this!

Step Four

Starting with the empty triangle above your tape, take your two pieces of painters tape and line them up with your taped triangles.

It is not important that your two pieces of reference tape touch. It will not matter with your speedsquare!

Align your speedsquare with each piece of tape and mark along sides of the speedsquare - remove reference tape.

Continue this process across the entire first line of taped triangles

Do the same on the triangles below - Mark your points directly below the triangle point above

Step Five

Once you've marked and taped the entire curtain, it's time to paint!!

I didn't want to get a paint tray so I just put plastic over a plate with a slight basin and poured my paint into it.

It's okay...you can call me lazy.

It's definitely a good idea to rub along the edges of your tape to ensure that the paint doesn't seep underneath. I didn't have much of a problem with the paint getting underneath - which is why Frogtape is superrrrb!

Paint directly along and over the sides of your tape.

After the first layer is finished, wait 5-10 minutes and add a second layer. The paint should dry quickly on the fabric, so you may not even have to wait if you start the second layer where you began the first.

You can definitely add more layers of paint if you think that it might intensify your color.

Because my paint is such a light color to begin with, it barely needed a second coat,

whereas colors such as black or red may need additional coats.

Step 6

Leave your lovely curtains to dry overnight.

If you're impatient (like me), you can remove the tape once you're certain that the paint is dry.

At first, I used a hair dryer to create a smooth removal of the tape, but I found that it was

not necessary and appeared to even create a more jagged edge.

The tape should remove smoothly, with no paint taken with it.

When you wake up in the morning, as you're blinking on your brain and avoiding hitting the snooze button for the third time, lay back and down and then suddenly JOLT up because you remembered your awesome project you finished the night before!!

Well...that last part wasn't necessary, but that's what I did and it was great.

So really, the next morning, hang up those lovely things and admire the great work you just did.

That part IS necessary.

I know, I know.

The picture quality is terrible.

I'll get a camera one day.

Maybe.

 

Craft on, little birdies

Velvet Chair "Paint-Over"

I am a thrift store fanatic. I could spend hours and hours searching for hidden treasures that someone once considered junk.

The one thing that I could never find but always wanted was a velvet chair!

Through all of my searching, I was never able to find one and I was starting to lose hope! I even considered spending $500 on brand new chair because I was growing so desperate for one.

Last Friday I had a long and frustrating day, and I decided to go thrift shopping to ease my tension; little did I know that all of my wishes were about to come true!!!

After picking up multiple wonderful things (including a stack of vintage Disney vinyl records), I had one last area to check...and there, out of the corner of my eye, I spot it. Corally and velvety and comfy as ever. Like manna from heaven!!

Okay...even if you can't understand my excitement or my thrift store craze, I'm sure that most people can understand the usefulness of being able to update old furniture to match your ever-changing styles. Even though this chair was stunning to begin with, it was a little to outdated for what I like. What it needed was a touch of gold.

"Gold??!!" you say, "E gads!!!"

I know...but listen...

Maybe not listen, but seriously. It looks great.

SO - let's get past my written rambling. If you have a piece of furniture with wood details that you'd like to paint, here's what you want to do:

Supplies

-Sandpaper-

found at Michaels or any craft store - be sure that it comes in different grain levels - you will need it

-Acrylic Paint-

found at Michaels - I used Martha Stewart Gold Coin in Satin - I used only 2 bottles but I would recommend purchasing more - always better to have too much than too little

-Paint Pallet or Bowl-

to hold your paint, of course

-Varying Sizes of Foam Brushes-

found at Michaels or any craft store - MAKE SURE to buy the foam brushes in the bag - they are worth the extra .50+ - the cheap brushes that aren't in packages fall apart ridiculously fast

-Finishing Spray-

found at Michaels - I used Martha Stewart Indoor/Outdoor finishing spray in Satin

-Painters Tape-

found at Walmart or any home improvement store - I would HIGHLY recommend Frog tape - it is somewhat costly (around $7.00), but it stays where you want it to and removes easily

-Plastic or Drop Cloth-

we don't want you dripping your paint all over the place!!

Once I had all of the supplies, this entire process took around 2 hours.

Annnnd here we go.

Step One

Cut your plastic or drop cloth to fit the area that you'll be working in. If you plan on working indoors, you'll want to leave quite a bit of extra room as sanding and finishing will get somewhat messy.

If the clothed section of the chair is easily removable, that will save you a LOT of time. If not, never fear. There is always a solution. If you're lazy like me and don't want to remove the chair and backing, use your painters tape to line the edges as well as you can. Sometimes you can even slide the tape in between the cloth and the wood, which will completely protect any paint from getting on your lovely coral velvet fabric (yes, I'm talking about my chair...I just love it so much).

Once you've lined the edges, wrap the ENTIRE fabric with painters tape. You might start thinking you're going to skip this step to save time, but don't!! Seriously. Sanding will get dusty and you'll be spending even more time trying to get your chair clean afterwards.

Step Two

Using either the most dense grain or medium grain of sandpaper, sand off only the top layer of the wood, just enough to get the lacquer off but not too much that all of the wood color is gone. I chose to sand the wood to appear slightly grainy and scratched so that the gold paint would look more antique.

Once you've sanded the off the lacquer (which is important...you'll find out why), use the smallest grain of sandpaper to smooth over the wood in case there are any stray slivers.

Dust off the entire chair - wood, taped fabric, everything.

Step Three

Begin painting your wood. Don't worry about laying the paint on the first time around. The less strokes you use, the smoother the finished result will be. I went around my chair 3 times to complete the look I wanted. Don't worry...it doesn't take as long as it sounds! Luckily, Martha Stewart Acrylic dries very fast, so if you finish the first go-around quickly, you should be fine to add your next layer.

Side Note - the reason I say to make sure the lacquer is gone is because your paint will not stick and you will frustrated. You might even break your chair that you've already worked so hard on!! So sand properly, kids.

Step Four

Once your paint is COMPLETELY dry, use the smallest grain sandpaper again to lightly go over any bubbles or rough areas. Wipe off the sanded areas and remaining dust.

Step Five

If you are inside...OPEN YOUR WINDOWS!!! As many as you can. Of course the can says to spray in a well-ventilated area, but my two skylights were not enough. I started feeling dizzy after 30 seconds. I may have lost 3 whole years of my life to this project. At least that means no rest home for me.

If you are outside...don't huff. That's all.

Holding the can about 10 inches away, use solid movements to spray your finishing spray over the painted wood. Wait five minutes (it dries fast), sand and dust any rough areas, and spray again. Repeat this process a third time.

Step Six

Wait at least 30 minutes until your chair is completely dry...

Make sure all of the dust is wiped clean from the tape...

Remove tape...

And gasp in awe at your new, lovely piece of furniture!!!

You may even want to sit in it.

It feels good, right? Better than it did before? That's because you worked so hard, you little soldier.

Congrats to you and your new home accessory!!!

Of course, no makeover project is complete without the Before and After photos:



Craft on, little birdies

I Heart Utah

The other day I was staring at my bedroom walls thinking that there was something seriously missing. It's such a large space that most of the walls are currently void of artwork, and I had no clue where to start. The only thing I knew was that whatever it was, I had to make it myself. It's the curse of the DIYers.

One weekend, I was browsing through Pinterest and came across an art piece of Texas using a wood board, nails, and crochet thread. It seemed like a fairly easy project, just time consuming as it required hammering 150+ nails into a piece of wood. I decided to create my own version.

What you will need:



Square Cork Tiles (WalMart - Approx. $5)




Thumbtacks - Depending on the amount of boards, you

might need a few of these. I bought 5. You can get them in

colors - I chose white because I planned on using a variety

of colors for the multiple boards I was doing, and it was

easier for me to paint my own  (WalMart - $.99)




Crochet Thread - They come in multiple colors and sizes

(WalMart or any craft store - $1-$5)





Nail polish. I know, I know...weird, but I used it to paint

the thumbtacks once the thread was strung. You can  also

spray paint the thumbtacks while they're still in the cardboard

that they're packaged in. I chose nail polish because it has a

hi-shine quality. Also because the color was b-e-a-utiful!

(Urban Outfitters - $5, although any brand will do)

The final images were painted with Revlon - Gold Coin

 


Jute Twine (Hobby Lobby or any craft store - $2-$5)




Hot Glue Gun (WalMart or any craft store - $2-$5)



Step 1

Start by tacking out your shape. I chose to do mine freehand, but normally I would recommend drawing a mirrored image of the state on the reverse side. It makes the tacking easier, and once you've put a thumbtack into cork board, it shouldn't be moved or adjusted. If you pull it out and re-tack, a larger hole will be created, and the thumbtacks will not stay in.

Helpful hint:

You might want to place another cork board underneath the one that you're tacking. If you found another brand or type of board that's thicker, GOOD! You're lucky. Cork board tiles are typically thinner, so the pins will go all the way through the other side. Placing another cork board underneath prevents little pokes and prods as you tack.

Step 2

After the border is finished, tack the heart around your favorite part of the state. In my case it was Salt Lake City, of course.

Step 3

Time to thread. The easiest place to start is the upper point of the heart. Loop the end of your crochet thread around a thumbtack, leaving a small tail to wrap in order for the thread to hold. From there, work your way around the border, wrapping thread only once on the 'border' tacks, and connect them to the nearest 'heart' tacks.

Step 4

I chose to outline both the state and the heart to create a bolder definition, but it is not necessary to do so as it looks good with or without. Once the entire piece has been thread, cut the string, again leaving a small tail to wrap around the thumbtack to hold the thread in place.

Here's where this project appears daunting. 

The back side, as I said, will have the tips of the tacks sticking out. I thought of all of the random craft supplies I had at my house, and chose one of the most time consuming options. Time consuming, but worth it!

As I've made a lot of these cork boards by now, I'm in the process of figuring out quicker and easier ways to cover the back. If I come up with something genius, I'll be sure to post it.

If you are a lazy bum (like I usually am) and decide that this step is unnecessary, feel free to skip to Step 6. The reason I would recommend Step 5 is because the tacks might scratch up your walls...and also because the back turns out AWEsome. "Radical", if you will.

Step 5

Warm up the hot glue gun, unravel a couple feet of twine, and flip the cork board upside down.

To start, hot glue a line about 3 inches long starting at the top corner. Line your twine up with the glue and press down, pressing on the ends first and working your way to the middle. The quicker you lay down the twine, the better it sticks (don't say "duh" you turd, someone may not know this!)

Continue this process working your way in towards the center. Once you've survived up to the last small sight of cork board (if you did, CONGRATULATIONS!!!), cut the twine with enough to cover that small spot - place a glob of glue on that empty space and push that twine into it. It may slightly burn, but it's a good burn. The burn of a job well done.

Step 6

If you would like to hang your nearly finished art piece, take two thumbtacks and cut the points off with diagonal pliers. Then cut a piece of twine about 2 ½ inches long. Organize the twine and thumbtacks to where you would like them. One by one, place a glob of hot glue onto the bottom of the tacks - press onto the edge of the twine you cut and hold for 30+ seconds.

Step 7

The FUN part!!

If you would like to add color (which, come on...why wouldn't you??), it's very, very simple.

Paint the thumb tacks just like you would your nails. Hopefully you have a steady hand - if not, wipe the slip-up before it dries, or use nail polish remover.

Now, don't be confused...like I said, I did many of these, so that's why these ones are Portland, Oregon (where I eventually want to be)

You can paint just the heart or just the border:

Or you can paint the entire thing!

Step 8

Hang up!!

You hang that art piece and you feel a swell of pride as you do. It is extremely necessary that you step back and admire it.

Good job, you, Ya did good.

Craft on, little birdies